Proper lubing after disassemble/reassemble?

[rmart]

I have a Beretta 92 frame I've detail stripped, cleaned, and I'm ready to put it back together.

 

I've seen some vids that say you should put gun grease on some of the parts, in fact some show the application of enough gun grease to fill cavities and completely encapsulate parts. This seems like a bad idea to me just due to dirt attraction and the inability to flush out dirt with a spray cleaner. In other words you'd have to regularly detail strip the firearm just to keep abrasive buildup from accumulating.

 

I've seen others that say run the gun dry with just needle application of mineral oil to slide rails and maybe a drop or so on the hammer and trigger pivots.

 

My guns see light use (especially now with the availability and cost of ammo) and I don't want oil drying out and gunking up the system either.

 

I typically clean my guns well with Hoppes or CLP and wipe them down as good as I can. Then I run an oiled patch down the barrel and put a couple drops of oil on the visible moving parts. I probably put too much on even there but I'd like to do it right.

 

I'd love to hear your thoughts.

[Rmac702]

A little bit of grease on any area that slides metal to metal or plastic to metal, and a few drops of oil on anything that rotates, include the springs too.  Do not oil the extractor or firing pin channel.

[Euler]

Apply mineral-based oil to all bare steel surfaces, then wipe it off. Steel is a porous metal. Some oil fills the pores and helps to prevent rust. Too much collects dirt and grit.

 

Then lube the moving parts however you prefer. I use oil. Some people use grease for the rails.

[2A4Cook]

I agree with the above for something like a Sig (I personally stopped using grease years ago ... it congeals), but I'd be concerned about using grease on a pistol with an open top slide like a B-92.  If you get dirt and dust in there (and grease will attract it), you've just created a stropping compound.  I'd follow the oiling advice above, and for the rails, just a tiny bit of gun butter.

[MagSlap]

Hoppes bore cleaner..

Hoppes oil...

Clean,scrub if necessary.....bore snake.

Oil contact points.

Done...

(Slaps can of that STANKY CLP thats still hangin' around that I used once....once...)

 

For the glock? I just dip it in toilet water and hang on the shower curtain rod to dry...

Then back in the holster after about 20 mins...good to go!

 

 

On a side note... I launched my first detent/spring into orbit today!

I was more concerned about losing the spring under the backplate when I rotated the buffer tube before I got my thumb on in....BOINK!! ...and thar she goes!!!

Luckily...it bounced off the orbiting ISS, re-entered the atmosphere and landed a few feet away.

Bonus: It looks like it got a higher quality heat treatment on the way back down....

 

[DD123]

I've been shooting competitively going on my 6th year and have tried basically every type of lube.  

 

The only things grease belongs on are Garands, over/under shotguns, and the pin that holds the bolt into the carrier on a semi auto (Benneli) style shotgun.  

 

I actually had grease on the rails of a Ruger P90 45 and shot it outdoors when it was like in the 20's out and the slide cycled so slowly that you could actually watch it slowly slide into battery lol.  Froglube is the same concept.  My buddy swore up and down that Froglube was the best of the best, and I took him to shoot outdoors in the winter and it was malfunction after malfunction.  We stripped the froglube off and went back and the gun ran fine.  

 

If you've detail stripped a gun, just use a good lube, really any good lube on all parts and surfaces that are metal.  

 

I have a collection of expensive lubricants and since I clean my guns religiously, I go through a lot of lube.  From a cost and performance perspective, the best I've found is Radcolube which is a regular old CLP.  The company is based here in Illinois and they're one of the military's suppliers.  

 

Every gun I own is run "wet".  I used to be a minimalist when it came to lubing my guns, but after seeing how many malfunctions I was getting once a gun was run hard enough and got dirty enough, I started lubing more liberally and my well tuned guns run malfunction free.  

 

You'll read a lot from people talking about how you should lube your carry gun minimally to avoid lint, but you're gonna get lint in the gun regardless.  Just use enough lube that you can see the gun is actually lubed, but not so much that your clothes are also getting lubed lol.  Range guns and competition guns are extremely lubed.  

 

The only other lube I've used that performs extremely well is Lucas Oil Xtreme Duty gun oil.  The viscosity of the oil is a bit thicker than CLP, or other oils, so it "sticks" a bit better to where you apply it.  I actually like it better on an AR bolt than CLP for this reason.  It seems like it doesn't burn off quite as much as thinner oils, and isn't thick enough to affect cycling.