USArmyRet Posted May 2, 2011 at 03:10 PM Posted May 2, 2011 at 03:10 PM What's new on the market? Been awhile, only used what was passed down from all the great grandaddys, pure ole Linseed oil. But we have had alot of Hope and Change lately and thought maybe some better and faster (gotta enjoy what years are left)wood preservatives out there.Is this stuff any good, sounds like it, anyone with any knowledge of the stuff? If not feel free to give me some more of that good ole Hope and Change that I've been enjoying about any new stuff on the market. Thanks bunches............ http://www.lin-speed.com/
pyre400 Posted May 2, 2011 at 03:17 PM Posted May 2, 2011 at 03:17 PM What's new on the market? Been awhile, only used what was passed down from all the great grandaddys, pure ole Linseed oil. But we have had alot of Hope and Change lately and thought maybe some better and faster (gotta enjoy what years are left)wood preservatives out there.Is this stuff any good, sounds like it, anyone with any knowledge of the stuff? If not feel free to give me some more of that good ole Hope and Change that I've been enjoying about any new stuff on the market. Thanks bunches............ http://www.lin-speed.com/ I'm interested in this as well. What are folks using for their wooden furniture - to maintain them (for all weather use)? - not so much refinish.
GarandFan Posted May 2, 2011 at 03:29 PM Posted May 2, 2011 at 03:29 PM I don't understand the interjection of "hope and change" to a discussion of gun stock finishes, but ... I've used both boiled linseed oil and tung oil on gun stocks (old military rifles). BLO is actually the "correct" treatment for certain US weapons, like M1 Garand rifles. But what is "correct" for this or that rifle is very difficult to ascertain and varies all over the board. I actually prefer tung oil as it lasts longer with less maintenance. Both will do very well to treat and preserve wood ... and if you apply several coats with thorough rubbing and drying after each, you can really make it look nice, too.
Federal Farmer Posted May 2, 2011 at 03:37 PM Posted May 2, 2011 at 03:37 PM A friend of mine found out that rags used to apply Boiled Linseed Oil will start to burn when tossed into a trash can...
USArmyRet Posted May 2, 2011 at 03:47 PM Author Posted May 2, 2011 at 03:47 PM I don't understand the interjection of "hope and change" to a discussion of gun stock finishes, but ... I've used both boiled linseed oil and tung oil on gun stocks (old military rifles). BLO is actually the "correct" treatment for certain US weapons, like M1 Garand rifles. But what is "correct" for this or that rifle is very difficult to ascertain and varies all over the board. I actually prefer tung oil as it lasts longer with less maintenance. Both will do very well to treat and preserve wood ... and if you apply several coats with thorough rubbing and drying after each, you can really make it look nice, too. I was 'Hoping' that someone could 'Change' my need with a better and faster application material to finish these new dull walnut grips I just recieved from the usual use of regular linseed oil. You tried but I too have used both linseed oil and tung oil. Thanks anyway.
Elderberry Posted May 2, 2011 at 05:37 PM Posted May 2, 2011 at 05:37 PM I've used Lin-speed with good results but my favorite is "Tom's 1/3 mix". It is really great stuff. It's a mixture of bees wax and BLO. I have a small collection of military rifles and this is all I use on them anymore. It protects the wood and keeps them looking great and avoids the kind of look that can happen when "Bubba" has been messing around... The more you use it the better they begin to look.... My link
USArmyRet Posted May 2, 2011 at 05:44 PM Author Posted May 2, 2011 at 05:44 PM I've used Lin-speed with good results but my favorite is "Tom's 1/3 mix". It is really great stuff. It's a mixture of bees wax and BLO. I have a small collection of military rifles and this is all I use on them anymore. It protects the wood and keeps them looking great and avoids the kind of look that can happen when "Bubba" has been messing around... The more you use it the better they begin to look.... My linkThat's something else to consider. Have not heard of that product either. Thanks
GarandFan Posted May 2, 2011 at 05:46 PM Posted May 2, 2011 at 05:46 PM Sorry Sir. I guess I had misunderstood you. I've only used the BLO and Tung oil.
milq Posted May 2, 2011 at 09:38 PM Posted May 2, 2011 at 09:38 PM Ive used BLO a few times with good results but it is definitely time consuming. There is a gun specific product called Tru-oil that works very well with less work. It's made by Birchwood-Casey and can be purchased through Brownells and others for around $6 per 8oz.
HDghostrider Posted May 3, 2011 at 12:25 AM Posted May 3, 2011 at 12:25 AM I don't know much about this stuff but is supposed to be very good. http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=5531/Product/PRO_CUSTOM_OIL_GUNSTOCK_FINISH
Chad Posted May 3, 2011 at 01:43 PM Posted May 3, 2011 at 01:43 PM I refinished my Mosin with BLO and topped it off with my "mosin butter" which is Beeswax, Linseed oil and some mineral spirits. It came out beautiful. It took a long time. I top it off with a coat of "Mosin butter" (about the consistency of paste wax) every now and then depending on use. http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y231/cwahls/Guns/DSC_0325.jpg http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y231/cwahls/Guns/DSC_0326.jpg http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y231/cwahls/Guns/DSC_0983.jpg
Jeff Johnson Posted May 3, 2011 at 03:01 PM Posted May 3, 2011 at 03:01 PM Fiddes hard wax oilhttp://www.fiddes.co.uk/content/I discovered this stuff when we put in a beautiful floor milled from antique oak barn beams (ok, not discovered actually, it was recomended to me) It is an old formula of beeswax, orange tree oil, linseed (ie flax) oil, etc. absolutely great finish and non toxic. it can be used on wooden toys for toddlers.I used to use BLO applied in layers and buffed with old burlap.
Chad Posted May 3, 2011 at 04:27 PM Posted May 3, 2011 at 04:27 PM so for the Fiddes, same prep? Get it bare and go at it?
Jeff Johnson Posted May 3, 2011 at 05:12 PM Posted May 3, 2011 at 05:12 PM Yes. Wipe with mineral spirits, let dry completely and Sand lightly or steel wool, brush hard wax oil on with a clean brush. 3 coats will last 10 years on a floor. 2 should last forever on a gunstock and it can be touched up if nicked etc.
Chad Posted May 3, 2011 at 05:49 PM Posted May 3, 2011 at 05:49 PM I can see myself picking some of that up to play with.
Jeff Johnson Posted May 3, 2011 at 07:08 PM Posted May 3, 2011 at 07:08 PM I have 4 cans. about 2/3 gallon cans for $65 each. I have an open can and can send smaller amounts if I can find suitable containers. I had plenty left over from a 26x28 great room and hall but I will eventually do the dining room floor with same stuff.
USArmyRet Posted May 8, 2011 at 06:47 PM Author Posted May 8, 2011 at 06:47 PM That Lin-oil didn't work out too well. Got the grips stripped back to their original finish. Shall leave them alone now, cost too damn much anyway to go screwing around with them. At least they match and can replace the grips this last BDA came with, speaking of the "last BDA" I went and bought another one. Seems I have an addiction now. Stupid too, I don't shoot just to shoot anymore and what's even worse, I'm turning into my distant cousin Budman and have started buying holsters for each one too.
GarandFan Posted May 8, 2011 at 06:54 PM Posted May 8, 2011 at 06:54 PM Chad, nice work on the Mosin.
Chad Posted May 10, 2011 at 02:27 PM Posted May 10, 2011 at 02:27 PM Chad, nice work on the Mosin. Thank you sir... I just bought a Romanian AK and it came in UGLY.. I did the same treatment to the grips and stock last weekend. All I have is cell phone pics, I'll drag out the nikon and grab pics of it also.
JR1987 Posted May 10, 2011 at 03:59 PM Posted May 10, 2011 at 03:59 PM A friend of mine found out that rags used to apply Boiled Linseed Oil will start to burn when tossed into a trash can... They sure will, so will mineral spirits. I use all of these to maintain the fretboard on my guitar. I soak them in water for a LONG time before I dispose of them. Chad, question. Where did you get your Mosin? AIM surplus or somewhere else? How's the quality in terms of shooting, and did it need any head space work? I am thinking on getting my father one for fathers day.
USArmyRet Posted May 10, 2011 at 05:21 PM Author Posted May 10, 2011 at 05:21 PM A friend of mine found out that rags used to apply Boiled Linseed Oil will start to burn when tossed into a trash can... They sure will, so will mineral spirits. I use all of these to maintain the fretboard on my guitar. I soak them in water for a LONG time before I dispose of them. Chad, question. Where did you get your Mosin? AIM surplus or somewhere else? How's the quality in terms of shooting, and did it need any head space work? I am thinking on getting my father one for fathers day. There are plenty here................gunbroker.com
JR1987 Posted May 10, 2011 at 05:23 PM Posted May 10, 2011 at 05:23 PM Yes they are all over the place, but finding them on buds or gunbroker is expensive. They are about 50-60 bucks more expensive (in some cases 100) for what AIM surplus charges. I'm not too worried about the supply, more the quality.
Chad Posted May 10, 2011 at 06:10 PM Posted May 10, 2011 at 06:10 PM I picked up the Mosin at Big R in Tilton IL (by Danville) I got lucky and got a hex receiver, they get them in occasionally and lately they have been round. I paid 110 out the door IIRC. The headspace was checked and is just fine. It does not bind up when ejecting shells either but I did the old drill and brush cleaning to get the cosmo out of the chamber. If you shoot it before removing ALL OF THE COSMO you can/will get binding shells requiring a 2X4 (crude) or some light tapping of a cleaning rod after cooling to extract the shell. There's soo much stuff on you tube/the net regarding this gun. this is a great site: http://7.62x54r.net/ The reason I refinished it was because the fore-grips had some leprosy and big-time grime. And like an idiot thought a little denatured alcohol would take the grime off.... Well Denatured alcohol strips Shellac the Ruskies must have been leaching vodka to cause the Leprosy :Drunk emoticon: Other than the wood it was in wonderful condition, even came with baked on blood. I ended up stripping it down and rubbing LOTS of BLO into it then the wax concoction I made. Fortunately I bought it in the dead of winter so I took my time. FWIW all my rags go STRAIGHT to the burn barrel out back, post haste.
JR1987 Posted May 10, 2011 at 06:56 PM Posted May 10, 2011 at 06:56 PM I've seen them all over ranging from 69-100 dollars. Average seems to be about 75 bucks. I want to get one because they are cheaply priced, and so is the surplus ammo. I want to get my dad a nice fathers day gift, partly because I don't want him using my Garand while I'm not around . How difficult was it to refinish? Just smooth sand and refinish with BLO?
Chad Posted May 10, 2011 at 07:12 PM Posted May 10, 2011 at 07:12 PM To me 110 was not bad because I did not have to pay for shipping or FFL, it's a long gun, REALLY long with he Bayonet fixed, I'd imagine it may be classified as an oversize package. Ammo (surplus) is certainly cheap, but it comes at the cost of cleaning and maintenance due to the corrosive primers. It's a labor of love. I stripped it with Denatured alcohol, a bit of heat, and more alcohol. The cosmo is the worst part honestly, just take your time. Old pots and a camp stove is the way to go, just boil out the small parts. After stripped I used steel wool, and not a whole lot honestly. You don't want to sand it AT ALL because it's full of cool infantry stamps! So some wool to your liking and start rubbing in the linseed oil. the cool thing about oil is that if you find an imperfection you just can't live with you can hit it with more wool and carry on. This one drank oil like it was it's job, the AK, not so much. after I was satisfied I had about as much oil rubbed in as it would take I chose the recipe of wax I thought worked good and I could make in a simple double boiler. I let the whole process take around 2 weeks, nicking away at it nightly, dry time will getcha, the more time you take, the better it will look. When applied the wax will be sticky, duh, like beeswax, but resist the temptation to rub it off. Sit it down overnight... THEN rub it off and re-apply. You will have fears of it always being soft but it will harden up nicely and shed water like a duck. The finish is not shiny, which I really like, it's got a matte sheen to it and feels wonderful to the touch. the grain pops nicely (visually) too. I'd almost be tempted to do another with the product listed earlier we were talking about, looks like really cool stuff, I'm not happy with the stock on my AK and if I could find a Chinese one I may do the other product we were talking about earlier (don't feel like scrolling up )
JR1987 Posted May 10, 2011 at 07:47 PM Posted May 10, 2011 at 07:47 PM Cool, thanks for the tips. I've seen some photos of people holding one, and yeah, its long. Makes my Garand look like an M4...
M*A*S*H Posted May 10, 2011 at 08:20 PM Posted May 10, 2011 at 08:20 PM Personally I really enjoy putting in the time to handrub boiled linseed in over several weeks... however I have used Tru-oil on several knife handles with great results. The leather sheath would leach out BLO and the Tru-oil has held up for years on my daily carry knife and went on in no time at all. Just like BLO the more coats the more sheen. It's pricey compared to BLO though. Tru-oil:http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr43/maish67/100_4027Small.jpg BLO:http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr43/maish67/22/100_4533.jpg http://i468.photobucket.com/albums/rr43/maish67/5-21-8013Medium.jpg
Chad Posted May 11, 2011 at 01:13 PM Posted May 11, 2011 at 01:13 PM It's great to see these projects.
Ashes Posted May 11, 2011 at 05:17 PM Posted May 11, 2011 at 05:17 PM I did this with Fairtrimmers Military Ox.http://www.fairtrimmers.com/
USArmyRet Posted May 11, 2011 at 11:18 PM Author Posted May 11, 2011 at 11:18 PM Picked up a bottle of Birchwood Gun Stock Wax today. It's working rather nice. Will take some coats to get the grips where I want them. This stuff is made up with bees wax, carnauba and silicone.
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