Posted 28 March 2012 - 12:10 PM
so how is this actually applied just wipe on/off?
does the paste get "baked" in?
Posted 28 March 2012 - 12:59 PM
Well I first, use alcohol or mineral spirits to remove any existing petroleum lubes that are on the parts. Then heat them with a blowdryer until they are very warm to the touch then brush on the paste product. It will melt on the part and soak in, let is sit until it cools about 5 minutes. I usually reheat them so the paste goes liquid again then wipe off the excess as the parts cool. I use the liquid product on rails and other moving parts just like you would with any other liquid oil. On the small Glock rails I will just dab a bit of the paste on and it stays in place then turns liquid as the gun heats up and goes back to paste when it cools and pretty much stays put. Theres just as many opponents as their are proponents for Frog Lube but Ive been using it a while and it works for me. I also lube my door hinges, locks and tools. Its in use in my bathroom, to keep my faucets from getting toothpaste and gunk built up on them (kids are messy) I just run the water hot until the metal heats up them spread on froglube and let it cool then buff them out. They mess just wipes right off. Oh..I cleaned my stainless grill with it..and tons of other things without having harmful chemicals.
"because we have a fairly large hammer. . .And I get to play Thor." Todd Vandermyde 12/15/12
Posted 01 April 2012 - 11:46 AM
Anyway, still no sign of clumps or grit. In fact, it looks just like the tub of paste that I have, only a slightly lighter color. Here's the pictures:
Posted 01 April 2012 - 11:51 AM
Edited by Mr. Fife, 01 April 2012 - 11:52 AM.
Posted 01 April 2012 - 12:08 PM
Posted 02 April 2012 - 09:30 AM
This isn't directed toward you Mr. Fife and I really appreciate you verifying what I'm seeing too, beyond the clumps. Imho, no matter how good something claims to be, anything that could impede reliability in all conditions is a real problem, and this stuff just isn't for me. I think I'll use up the rest on barrels only, then go back to the regular stuff. Thanks again.
Posted 02 April 2012 - 10:55 AM
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Posted 02 April 2012 - 12:38 PM
Since it is wiped down just like any other lubricant, I'm not concerned that there would be big globs of stuff resembling pistachio pudding forming on the gun.
The only problem with this stuff that I could foresee is if lots of it collected in the firing pin channel of a smaller gun like my LC9, but there should be no reason for something like that to happen, unless you did it on purpose.
My new LC9 had lots of problems with S&B ammo until I bought a punch set and took the gun apart, only to find thick brown goo in the firing channel. Lots of people have this same problem with the LC9 and S&B ammo. Little pieces of brass collecting in and around the firing pin hole. They send the guns in for repairs, and some come back still having the problem, but my problem was solved by cleaning the channel.
I couldn't see the goo, even with a flashlight, but a compressed q-tip shoved into the channel came out full of brown gunk. After a good cleaning, I was able to put 200 rounds of S&B through it without a hiccup. No more brass fragments either. Before I couldn't fire more than 3 rounds before experiencing a light strike.
I would be concerned that green goo may have the same effect as the brown goo if it hardened up in the firing pin channel.
Edited by Mr. Fife, 02 April 2012 - 12:40 PM.