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Ultrasonic Cleaner?


Ashes

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Kenny take a look at what Ashes pointed out here http://www.jewelsmall.com/shulhaclpa.html

 

They have a complete gun cleaning kit available

 

Package Contents:

 

  • Polycarbonate Lubricating Pan and Lid − Protect your guns while lubricating them!
  • Polycarbonate Cleaning Tray − Protect your guns while cleaning them with the most powerful gun cleaning technology in existence!
  • 1 Gallon Ultrasonic Cleaning/Degreasing Solution − Removes dirt, carbon, and grease from even the hardest places to reach by hand!
  • 1 Gallon Ultrasonic Lubricating Solution − Environmentally safe lubricant protects guns from rust and reduces friction to increase shooting distance and prevent the gun from jamming!
  • 1oz Oil with Needle-Point Dispenser − A little extra oil to take with you on the field in case you need it!
  • 2 Brushes − 1 Nylon and 1 Brass
  • SH150-4L Ultrasonic Cleaner − A powerful multi-purpose heated ultrasonic cleaner that can hold one 6" Revolver or 2 Semi-Automatic Pistols!

Protect Your Guns:

 

In order to produce the ultrasonic waves that clean your guns, the ultrasonic transducers make the entire inside of the tank vibrate. This means that if you have guns in there, the constant vibration could scratch or otherwise damage your guns. This is why we use polycarbonate trays and pans in our cleaner. None of our competitors have shown enough concern for your guns to bother selling polycarbonate trays and pans. They all simply use the stainless steel tank because it's cheaper. Go with the company that cares for guns the way you do - SharperTek!

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Maybe Hoppes isn't the best idea!!! It says to store below 120 degrees!!!! :thumbsup:

 

I need to find a better solution, I do not want water based. One of the things i like about hoppes is the fact that it cleans great but also leaves a slight film of oil on the parts, then i don't have to oil everything.

 

Even straight kerosene has a flashpoint of 100F - this unit supposedly hits ~150F. Water-based or trans fluid may be the safest option.

 

Man, you're house had to be "singing" with the smell of hoppe's in the air LOL.

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Maybe Hoppes isn't the best idea!!! It says to store below 120 degrees!!!! :shocked:

 

I need to find a better solution, I do not want water based. One of the things i like about hoppes is the fact that it cleans great but also leaves a slight film of oil on the parts, then i don't have to oil everything.

 

Even straight kerosene has a flashpoint of 100F - this unit supposedly hits ~150F. Water-based or trans fluid may be the safest option.

 

Man, you're house had to be "singing" with the smell of hoppe's in the air LOL.

 

 

I am liking the simple green idea so far & just do a good oiling when i'm done. Maybe I will go buy a chemistry set & start experimenting!! :thumbsup:

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Hey folks, be very careful with Simplegreen. I have heard that it tends to be harsh on aluminum.

Also for those folks who still plan on using Hoppes #9, same warning from the other thread. Don't smoke near the ultrasonic cleaner. :thumbsup:

 

You may be better served by a mix of automatic transmission fluid and mineral spirits.

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Hey folks, be very careful with Simplegreen. I have heard that it tends to be harsh on aluminum.

Also for those folks who still plan on using Hoppes #9, same warning from the other thread. Don't smoke near the ultrasonic cleaner. wink.gif

 

You may be better served by a mix of automatic transmission fluid and mineral spirits.

 

Thanks for that warning. I'm also concerned about the different finishes. I'll have to do some experiments I guess.

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I have never used an ultrasonic cleaner for cleaning firearms but I have used them extensively for cleaning watches and related material. Every watchmaker I have ever known uses a cleaner manufactured by a company called L&R. I visited the L&R website: http://www.lrultrasonics.com/industries/weapons/ and discovered that L&R also makes cleaners and lubrication solutions for firearms. These solutions are specifically designed to be used in their ultrasonIc cleaners. I can't vouch for them from an actual user standpoint but if they are as good as the cleaners and solutions for the watchmaking trade I suspect they are top notch.
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  • 9 months later...

How are you guys liking your cleaners by now. I am kicking around buying one.

 

Well... I'd only suggest that you read up on them. Do some research on how they work, and "surfactants". Mine was disappointing the first few times I used it as I was not using the proper liquid, and I also had very high expectations. In a nutshell, it takes quite a few cycles to clean any fouling (20 - 30 min)... Its awesome at cleaning oil or grease from a surface - for sure, but worthless at cleaning something like an AR bolt.

 

In the end, had I known then what I do now, I would have passed on purchasing one of these, as I still have to do quite a bit of manual cleaning. I dont know if its because of my specific cleaner, or because I'm very compulsive about how clean my stuff is. I end up using an old bore brush and "chore boy" 100% copper scrubber material to remove fouling, and then the ultrasonic cleaner to do the rest.

 

I was very intent on getting this thing to work though - and I did achieve 1000% better results by reading up on how ultrasonic cleaning works. For me, I created my own solution, which is VERY important aspect of the ultrasonic cleaning process. I make a mixture of isopropyl, mpro, and distilled water - that's what gives me the best result, but still not at the level of cleaning by hand. Ashes was right about the mpro - it is a very good product. I wish I would have tried it a long time ago... Carwash soap (which also contains surfactant, and simple green were not as effective for me as my solution mentioned above). You may actually get best results from purchasing a ultrasonic cleaning solution... Oh, and if you do get a unit, make sure to get one with heat as hot water has a lower surface tension (works much, much better than cold water).

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I was hoping to use it for lead fouling mostly because I hate scraping.(lazy) I was also thinking about carbon on my AR. Strike 2.Maybe I need to rethink it but it may still be nice to have around. I am definately going for heat if I get one though.

 

I'll watch for good testimony on a unit that does not cost hundreds of dollars, or perhaps a concoction that does not degrade components while still removing lead. There are commercial units that are supposed to be the cat's PJs, but I'd have to own a gunsmith business to justify a purchase.

 

FWIW - the copper/job chore pad from walgreens (cut into strips and wrapped around a bore brush and add your favorite solvent/soap) works awesome for routine lead removal. Just make sure you check the pad with a magnet if you find an off brand. Sometimes they're copper plated steel - something you dont want in your bore.

 

I use the same ol razor blade method for removing carbon from the back of the bolt (on the flared end) - I even polished mine to make it easier to clean - I taped it at the end to protect it from the chuck, chucked it in a drill, and used cotton patch (12ga cleaning patch) wrapped chop stick with polishing compound. It made a noticeable difference, but still is a pain in the keyster to clean copper and lead off of.

 

I'd liken my experience with the ultrasonic cleaner to that of the moderate who voted for obama... Well maybe not that bad, but pretty disappointing considering my expectations.

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Glad you like the MPro-7 Pyre400. Sorry about your experience with the ultrasonic cleaner.

I'm still decanting through my original mixture of MPro7 and distilled water. The dirt settles to the bottom of the glass bottle I'm using for storage and I just pour off the clean fluid into another bottle for use later and top it with more MPro7 when cleaning in the ultrasonic cleaner.

 

I haven't done a full cleaning using the ultrasonic cleaner in a while now. Lack of shooting time means a pistol barrel that cleans up in 3 patches. MPro7 soaked patch followed by a dry patch and then an oily patch. Supposedly the MPro7 will plate itself to metal making it harder for carbon to stick to it and making it easier to clean the barrel. I think that may be what is happening now.

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Glad you like the MPro-7 Pyre400. Sorry about your experience with the ultrasonic cleaner.

 

Yes sir, I do. The MPro is definitely a good product.

 

Its not necessary to apologize at all... You have had good experiences with yours and I dont think you'd recommend something that did not work well for you. I was just giving my perspective - for what it may be worth.

 

I have one more experiment that I'll do with a stainless steel basket (when I find one) instead of the plastic one that the unit comes with. I notice more little bubbles dancing around when I dont use the plastic basket, but then the part usually migrates away from the transducer as it vibrates across the floor of the unit. The past couple of cleanings I had used a wire to suspend the part in the solution but I'd rather just throw 'em into the basket.

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  • 1 year later...

So I was determined to make this work. They now have a stainless basket which I've been planning to purchase, but I have not yet done so. I will soon. Being that I'm a stingy bastage with my money, and cant stand to waste it, I have been doing experiments with my ultrasonic cleaner.

 

I wanted to share a discovery that I made, due to some experimentation.

 

Over the past few months I've noticed some miraculous results with my cleaner. I had already studied up on how these cleaners work, and I know that they are VERY fussy as to the chemistry of the solvent used. I'm not a chemist, and I've only my own experience to share - someone may find objection to what I'm about to say, which may be valid - YMMV...

 

 

The key to successful cleaning with one of these units is the use of a surfactant - keeping surface tension extremely low:

What I use:

 

Heat (158 degrees)

Low/No mineral content water (distilled water is what I use)

Laundry detergent (about a tablespoon - laundry soap contains surfactants)

Dish soap (palmolive - 8 drops or so)

A good heavy shot of isopropyl alcohol 5oz or so (as yet another surfactant / degreaser)

 

All I can say is that I'm truly impressed. The formulation above cost me next to nothing. When the tank heats up, it cant put holes in aluminum foil in no time. Bolt, carrier, pin - all clean as a whistle. Any carbon will "pop" off. In 2 sometimes 3 five minute cycles, my parts look like new. The parkerized finishes are intact... I'm betting with the addition of a stainless basket I can clean a BCG in 1 5min cycle.

 

I haven't taken any photos yet of this process, but if folks want me to, I can. I must disclose that I polish the flange on the AR bolt, to make it easier to clean. I will also wipe things off with a paper towel to get oil off - Lastly I've hit the flange with a brass bristle "shop brush" (about 10 swipes or less, but next time I'll forgo that step all together). Still the inside of the bolt carrier, where I cant get at by manual/mechanical means, is brand new looking - zero carbon.

 

One interesting thing too - in one of my pistol barrels, the process exposed some copper in the grooves which was not previously visible, even after conventional cleaning. I have a feeling that jhp ammunition is to blame for that - where the lead had masked the copper streaks. I'll hit it with one quick cleaning of JB, and all will be good (I'm fine with not using the ultrasonic for metal fouling)

 

Anyhow, thanks Ashes for getting me off the bench on this (you too Kenny). It was only when I was very aggressive with the surfactant that I got the results that I was looking for. Cost of operation for me is pennies now, and the results are nothing short of amazing. Sorry for the long post, but I'm pretty stoked about my last results, after quite a bit of experimenting. I hope this information is helpful to someone else.

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