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S&W Performance Center Revolver Inspection


skrapyard

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So I'm about to jump into the wonderful world of wheelguns.

 

Specifically, I am looking at purchasing a performance center 627 vcomp. And after spending a bit of time digging around online I keep seeing stories of people recently having issues with guns coming out of the S&W performance center. Things such as barrels not being clocked properly, metal shavings inside the gun, excessive cylinder gaps, and excessive endshake. The light at the end of the tunnel for these stories seems to be that the S&W repair/warranty dept always makes everything right in the end.

 

To get to my questions...

 

Has anyone here recently purchased a NIB S&W revolver? And were there any issues with it?

 

If you had to send anything back to S&W warranty dept, were there still any issues when the gun was returned to you?

 

Since I am new to revolvers, I am trying to get together a list of items that I can inspect on the gun so that I dont sound like a confused mope if I do indeed need to send a brand new gun in for repair.

 

Obviously I will be checking things such as

 

1. Is the barrel clocked properly

2. Measure the cylinder gap

3. Measure the endshake of the cylinder

 

I dont really want to open the gun up to check for metal shavings, but it seems like this is something that I should do.

 

If anyone here has experience working on revolvers, it would be much appreciated if you can add any items that I should be checking/inspecting once I actually have the gun in hand.

 

****Im not trying to harp on S&W. I know they make good products. But I do want to ensure that everything is 100% on this gun before I start beating it up at the range. Even if that means I have to send it back to S&W for them to make it right***

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The barrel shoulder is left a bit long so that when the barrel is indexed, the front sight is right of center when looking at it from the firing position. The shoulder is then turned down a little at a time until the barrel is indexed correctly when tightened down to specs.

 

As to shavings left inside the revolver, that's extremely unlikely. If you know how, remove the side plate and blow out the internals with compressed air. If you're not comfortable removing the side plate, let someone else do it. If you do remove the side plate, don't mix up the screws.

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Im actually very comfortable opening up the sideplate. Really, the only reason I would be hesitant to do so is since this will be a brand new gun and I would like to check everything that I can externally before I get into the "guts".

 

The info on how the barrel should be clocked is helpful. If the front sight is to the right then the shoulder needs more metal taken off. So, I would assume that means if the front sight is to the left then they took too much metal off?

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My last new S&W was about ten years ago a 625JM I got for IDPA. Took it out and started shooting just the way it was never had the side plate off. Since then it has seen thousands of hot 230 grain rounds with no problems. I have changed to a fiber optic front sight and Hogue compact grips. I got the Hogue grips because the JM grips extend past the end of the butt too far to be practical for everyday concealed carry. After getting used to the Hogues I use them all the time even for IDPA. Jim.
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Bought a S&W 29 Classic couple of years ago and it had to go back.

Terrible bluing on cylinder and grips were loose and screw would just spin when I went to tighten it.

S&W paid shipping both ways and it came back perfect.

But don't think that S&W is special, and they only have problems.

Bought a Ruger Blackhawk last year and the base pin would move forward with every shot and grip fit was horrible.

Ruger did the same, paid shipping both ways and it also came back perfect.

Must be because the manufactures were pumping out as many guns as fast as possible during Obama days.

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