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1911 Spring Maintenance (no, not the season)


Buzzard

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Posted
For all you Colt government owners and the many variants, what are you using for springs? And how often - if ever - do you change them? What weight are you using? ALSO - is anyone using the Wilson Shok-buffs? Other than cleaning - what's your maintenance consist of?
Posted

Wolff continues to be the leader in replacement springs. I suspect that most (quality) places that include springs with their triggers, etc. are using Wolff but I have no proof of that.

 

I use a 19# main spring and a 16# recoil spring in my stainless Springfield Govt. model that I sometimes use as a self defense handgun, it also has a hammer/sear/trigger group from Fusion that I fit last Fall. I've used a wide variety of ammo in it, including some pretty old reloads and it hasn't failed to go "bang" since I fitted everything.

 

My Operator has a 17# main spring and a 16# recoil, I use it for target only and have had instances in which it didn't ignite the primer on the first strike.

Posted

I use a 19# main spring and a 16# recoil spring in my stainless Springfield Govt. model that I sometimes use as a self defense handgun, it also has a hammer/sear/trigger group from Fusion that I fit last Fall. I've used a wide variety of ammo in it, including some pretty old reloads and it hasn't failed to go "bang" since I fitted everything.

 

My Operator has a 17# main spring and a 16# recoil, I use it for target only and have had instances in which it didn't ignite the primer on the first strike.

It sounds like you're a Springfield fan. Since your reloads perform fine in the stainless gun, to what do you attribute the few failure to fire rounds with the Operator?

Posted

I've been using the Wilson Shock-buffs for years in my Commander. I chance it when it starts to look beat up.

 

Thanks Lou. I'm thinking about putting one in my shooter. I'll put you down as "Lou favors the Shok-Buffs."

Posted

For all you Colt government owners and the many variants, what are you using for springs? And how often - if ever - do you change them? What weight are you using? ALSO - is anyone using the Wilson Shok-buffs? Other than cleaning - what's your maintenance consist of?

 

I use an 18.5 lb Wolff spring in a 5" Ed Brown EE, and a 20 lb. spring in a 4.25 Wesson CBOB. Brown recommends the recoil spring be changed at between 1000 and 2000 rounds. I think the 1000 round figure is pretty low and have never changed out springs that early. In fact I usually go longer than the 2000 round figure as well, probably averaging a change at 2500 rounds. As far as maintenance goes, I field strip and clean after every range trip and do a detail strip after 1000 rounds or so, even though I don't think it needs to be done that frequently.

Posted

Whatever Colt put in 'em. They're still working fine.

 

Wise old auto mechanic at home used to say "If it's a runnin', don't mess with it". Well, he was a little saltier than that, but you get the drift.

 

AB

Posted

Whatever Colt put in 'em. They're still working fine.

 

Wise old auto mechanic at home used to say "If it's a runnin', don't mess with it". Well, he was a little saltier than that, but you get the drift.

 

AB

 

I guess if that Gold Cup is shootin' the way it should, no malfunctions and the brass is landing where it should - then that's hard to argue with.

Posted

Whatever Colt put in 'em. They're still working fine.

 

Wise old auto mechanic at home used to say "If it's a runnin', don't mess with it". Well, he was a little saltier than that, but you get the drift.

 

AB

 

I guess if that Gold Cup is shootin' the way it should, no malfunctions and the brass is landing where it should - then that's hard to argue with.

 

Things are fine in that realm, but with the workout Shortpants (granddaughter) gave the .22's over the weekend, they're in need of some TLC!!!

Posted

Whatever Colt put in 'em. They're still working fine.

 

Wise old auto mechanic at home used to say "If it's a runnin', don't mess with it". Well, he was a little saltier than that, but you get the drift.

 

AB

 

I guess if that Gold Cup is shootin' the way it should, no malfunctions and the brass is landing where it should - then that's hard to argue with.

 

Things are fine in that realm, but with the workout Shortpants (granddaughter) gave the .22's over the weekend, they're in need of some TLC!!!

 

Hey AB! While we're discussing springs - ever had a Gold Cup frame apart and dealt with that little sear depressor spring that's unique to the Gold Cups? I haven't as yet but from what I've read they're a ******* to put back together.

Posted

 

 

Hey AB! While we're discussing springs - ever had a Gold Cup frame apart and dealt with that little sear depressor spring that's unique to the Gold Cups? I haven't as yet but from what I've read they're a ******* to put back together.

 

 

Nope, not had it that long or into it that deep. Thanks for the heads up though, I'll do some research before tying into it!

 

AB

Posted

Howdy,

 

I have recoil buffers in all my 1911's,except the GSG1911-22lr. These include Colts, SA, & Essex.

 

I like em.

 

jkrzos

Posted

Hey AB! While we're discussing springs - ever had a Gold Cup frame apart and dealt with that little sear depressor spring that's unique to the Gold Cups? I haven't as yet but from what I've read they're a ******* to put back together.

 

Nope, not had it that long or into it that deep. Thanks for the heads up though, I'll do some research before tying into it!

 

AB

 

I'm gathering info on it myself. What makes me worry is it sounds like some gunsmiths take 'em out and pitch 'em. I'm not sure I'd like that done to MY gun. I did find a good picture of the sear depressor but can't seem to find it now. I should have bookmarked it when I discovered it. Here's a couple pages from the 1911 forum that shows it.

 

http://forums.1911fo...ad.php?t=270852

 

http://1911forum.com...ead.php?t=23969

 

It sounds like the trick to easing the reassembly of the sear depressor is to use an old sear pin cut to length to use as a slave pin. I've seen others say they use a Q-tip stem to hold things in place while you insert the sear pin.

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